Estimate a per-window and whole-house installed price range in seconds. Set your window count, then adjust for style, frame material, and insert vs full-frame install.
Ballpark only, not a quote. Get 3 local bids before you budget.
Installed price ranges are planning estimates, not an offer. A measured, written quote from a local installer is the only real number. See sources and methodology below.
Window replacement is priced per window installed, then totaled for the whole house, and the per-window number swings a lot based on four things: the window style, the frame material, the install type (insert vs full-frame), and the glass package. This calculator multiplies your window count by a realistic per-window range and adjusts it for those choices, so you get a low, mid, and high installed band instead of one misleading number. It is a planning ballpark, not a quote.
Two homes with the same number of windows can get quotes that are thousands of dollars apart. Here is where the money actually goes:
On top of those, site factors matter: upper-story or hard-to-reach windows add labor, hidden rot or rotten sills add carpentry, and custom colors, grilles, or odd shapes add to the order. The calculator lets you flag those so the high end of your range reflects them.
If you only understand one thing before getting quotes, make it this one. An insert (pocket) replacement slides a new window unit into your existing, sound frame. Your interior and exterior trim, siding, and drywall stay untouched, so the job is faster and cheaper. The tradeoff is that you keep the old frame, you lose a small amount of glass area to the double frame thickness, and any problems hiding behind that frame stay hidden.
A full-frame replacement tears the old window out completely, back to the rough opening, and rebuilds with a brand-new frame, fresh flashing, and new trim. It costs noticeably more because of the carpentry and exterior work, but it is the right call when the existing frame is rotted, water has been getting in, or you want to change the window size or operating style. Picking full-frame when an insert would do is overspending. Picking an insert to hide rot is a repair you will pay for twice. When an installer quotes a number that seems far above or below another, the first question to ask is which method they bid.
Efficient glass (Low-E coatings, argon fill, triple-pane) genuinely cuts heat transfer and can lower your cooling and heating bills, but the payback is gradual and depends on your climate, your old windows, and your energy rates. Treat efficiency as a comfort and long-term-bill upgrade, not a fast money-back move, and be skeptical of any pitch that promises the windows will "pay for themselves" in a year or two. Federal energy-efficiency tax credits for windows do exist and change over time. If a salesperson cites one, verify the current IRS figure and eligibility yourself before counting on it.
In Florida, glass choice is often not just about efficiency. Much of coastal Florida requires opening protection and windows rated for the local design wind speed, and High-Velocity Hurricane Zones (parts of South Florida) carry stricter requirements still. Impact-rated windows cost more than standard units, but they can satisfy the code without separate shutters and may reduce your insurance premium. Permits are typically required for window replacement, and inspectors check the product approval and installation. Rules vary by county and change over time, so verify the current requirement with your local building department and a licensed installer before you buy.
The baseline per-window ranges and the style, material, install, and glass multipliers in this tool live in a clearly commented config block at the top of the calculator script, with each baseline attributed to widely published industry cost guides (for example Angi, HomeAdvisor, and Forbes Home cost-of-replacement-windows research) and stamped with a review date. They are national ballparks for sanity-checking, not Kelly Webmasters and Marketers pricing and not a quote. Your local market, window sizes, and code requirements decide the real number.
The Pro version runs on your own domain with your pricing, your styles and frame lines, your local wind-zone presets, and a built-in lead form so every homeowner who builds an estimate lands in your inbox with their window count and selections attached. Be first in line.
Get early access, book a free call →The math starts with a single window. The tool holds a national installed price range, low to high, for one standard double-hung vinyl insert, then adjusts it with four multipliers: window style, frame material, install type, and glass package. Those four multiply together, so a wood casement with impact glass and a full-frame tear-out compounds well past a plain vinyl pocket replacement. That per-window figure is multiplied by your window count, and the three site-factor checkboxes, second-story access, expected rot and trim repair, and custom colors or grilles, add a percentage to the whole-house total. The result shows a per-window price and a whole-house band side by side.
The baseline is generalized from published national window replacement cost guides, last reviewed in June 2026, and the multipliers are relative adjustments rather than measured prices from any one market. Install type deserves a close look for a good reason: an insert reuses the frame you already have, while a full-frame replacement goes back to the rough opening and brings carpentry, flashing, and new trim with it. Window count is capped at 100.
The blind spots matter more than the math. The tool never asks for a size, so it assumes standard openings, and an oversized picture window, a custom shape, or an arched transom will land above what it prints. It cannot see your local labor market, permit fees, or what is hiding behind the trim, and it cannot tell you whether your address requires impact-rated glass. That answer comes from your building department and a licensed installer, not a web page. It does not model energy savings or payback either. Size a budget with it, then get three measured, written bids. There are more than 50 free tools published at kellywm.com/tools, no email wall, and window pros who want this one rebuilt around their own pricing can have it done as a custom tool.
Because insert and full-frame are different jobs. An insert sets a new window inside the existing frame, so the trim and siding stay put and the labor stays short. Full-frame strips the opening back to the framing, which is the only way to correct rot, re-flash properly, or change the window size, and it adds carpentry and exterior work at every opening. The tool applies that as a multiplier on each window, so across a whole-house order the gap compounds.
As a sanity check, yes. Match the bid's style, material, install type, and glass package to the dropdowns and see whether the quote falls inside the band. If it sits well above, ask which line items are driving it: full-frame work, impact glass, custom sizes, or repairs found on the measure. If it sits well below, ask what is not included. The output is a planning range, never a quote.